After I trimmed the Pugs' nails yesterday, I thought about how often I have been asked how I do it. Pug owners can attest that for all their cuteness and love, Pugs turn into squirming, squalling, incredulous hulks when it's time to trim nails. How can this possibly keep feet and pasterns healthy?! Who do we think we are? There is a scale of disgusted behavior that ranges from little whines and yawning for mercy, all the way to so wild, only the entire vet staff holding on, all at once, can manage it.
Theory: stress reduction
Years ago, I read about a product called the Anxiety Wrap. I took that thought and went a step further- how to keep myself from getting pawed to death while trimming Pug nails. Pugs of the breed standard size slide neatly into an old flannel shirt sleeve. You may have to do a little shopping to find a sleeve that fits a larger Pug.
Do not hold it on to get it done faster; it will build up heat and burn the dog. If you see lamina peeling, stop! You are about to quick the dog. Keep QuickStop gel ready, in case you make a mistake. It is both a pain reliever and coagulant. Nails should be done once a week. If you show, you may have to do it twice a week to keep that ideal rounded profile. Dogs who are exercised on asphalt and who lack enough biotin may have flaky or slow growing nails, so adjust the diet and trimming schedule accordingly. Have patience and don't expect perfect nails the first trim. It takes weeks of careful trimming before the quick recedes naturally, from contact wear.
Work your way around all four feet, taking care to rewrap the other limbs each time. Some Pugs complain a little for the duration, but others are so secure in the wrap that they actually snore through it all. When unwrapping, be sure the place the Pug on a floor with a texture for grip, such as a carpet or rubber mat. They are backing out of the sleeve blindly and could slip or fall. This trimming method does not work for all Pugs, but it is worth trying if you have a problem child. It helps to start training your puppy early, in proportionately sized sleeves. A behavior hint: negative reactions to stimuli are "contagious". A normal dog will take a cue from a dog who is expressing disgust (such as of trimming). Trim each dog in isolation, or you will end up with all of them misbehaving the same way. If you take no other advice here, be kind and don't be bullied by your Pug.
DISCLAIMER: The techniques and materials suggested on this site are merely suggestions. The advice given here is not intended as a substitute for a professional veterinary opinion. The site owners, authors, and affiliates are not responsible for the misuse or use of any advice or recommended products.
Theory: stress reduction
Years ago, I read about a product called the Anxiety Wrap. I took that thought and went a step further- how to keep myself from getting pawed to death while trimming Pug nails. Pugs of the breed standard size slide neatly into an old flannel shirt sleeve. You may have to do a little shopping to find a sleeve that fits a larger Pug.
Gently fold the forefeet to the chest and make sure the Pug's face is at the end, for safe respiration. This hold keeps the Pug calm and prevents you from getting kicked.
Start with a hind foot. Be gentle, it's just a little guy! Isolate the foot as shown and snugly wrap the other hind and the rest of the Pug with the remainder of the shirt.
These diagrams show two common problem nail shapes.
If the quick stays long, the nail stays overgrown. Dremelling is pretty easy, just put it on slow speed and take your time, dabbing at the nail. The whitish part of the nail below is where it has been dremelled. The other nails are untouched. .
Practice: sculpting the nail
I use both a dremel with a sanding drum and a regular human nail file. Use eye protection, a dusk mask, and flexible but thick gloves for this job. Before I turn on the dremel, I check the claws to see if the back edge is "hooking" into the toe pad behind it. Hooks are removed by sliding the file between the hook and pad, yet keeping it off of the pad surface (you don't want to sand the Pug's skin). This part of the claw seems to grow much faster than the front. The front wall of the nail is the thickest. I find that sculpting this down, as well as the very end, until you reach the rubbery end of the quick, helps the quick recede naturally.
I use both a dremel with a sanding drum and a regular human nail file. Use eye protection, a dusk mask, and flexible but thick gloves for this job. Before I turn on the dremel, I check the claws to see if the back edge is "hooking" into the toe pad behind it. Hooks are removed by sliding the file between the hook and pad, yet keeping it off of the pad surface (you don't want to sand the Pug's skin). This part of the claw seems to grow much faster than the front. The front wall of the nail is the thickest. I find that sculpting this down, as well as the very end, until you reach the rubbery end of the quick, helps the quick recede naturally.
If the quick stays long, the nail stays overgrown. Dremelling is pretty easy, just put it on slow speed and take your time, dabbing at the nail. The whitish part of the nail below is where it has been dremelled. The other nails are untouched. .
Do not hold it on to get it done faster; it will build up heat and burn the dog. If you see lamina peeling, stop! You are about to quick the dog. Keep QuickStop gel ready, in case you make a mistake. It is both a pain reliever and coagulant. Nails should be done once a week. If you show, you may have to do it twice a week to keep that ideal rounded profile. Dogs who are exercised on asphalt and who lack enough biotin may have flaky or slow growing nails, so adjust the diet and trimming schedule accordingly. Have patience and don't expect perfect nails the first trim. It takes weeks of careful trimming before the quick recedes naturally, from contact wear.
Work your way around all four feet, taking care to rewrap the other limbs each time. Some Pugs complain a little for the duration, but others are so secure in the wrap that they actually snore through it all. When unwrapping, be sure the place the Pug on a floor with a texture for grip, such as a carpet or rubber mat. They are backing out of the sleeve blindly and could slip or fall. This trimming method does not work for all Pugs, but it is worth trying if you have a problem child. It helps to start training your puppy early, in proportionately sized sleeves. A behavior hint: negative reactions to stimuli are "contagious". A normal dog will take a cue from a dog who is expressing disgust (such as of trimming). Trim each dog in isolation, or you will end up with all of them misbehaving the same way. If you take no other advice here, be kind and don't be bullied by your Pug.
DISCLAIMER: The techniques and materials suggested on this site are merely suggestions. The advice given here is not intended as a substitute for a professional veterinary opinion. The site owners, authors, and affiliates are not responsible for the misuse or use of any advice or recommended products.
Excellent resource. Thank you so much for taking the time to type this out for us, with pictures too!
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